The good news is that you don't have to spend much money on getting your first great drift car. The ideal purchase should feature a rear-wheel drive layout, limited-slip differential, manual transmission, balanced and lightweight chassis, a nice long wheelbase, an easy-to-tune suspension, and, of course, a front-mounted, simple-to-tune engine.
As a previous E36 owner….no. I dunno, maybe others have had better luck but I’ve owned 5 different generations of BMW and the E36 was by FAR the worst in terms of reliability, and build quality. I’ve never really had any other issues with any of my other cars but the E36 was just constant.
I'm shopping for my first drift car currently. I'm looking to do a BMW E36 coupe with the goal of an LS1 swap. The build to me is just as fun as the Drifting, so I'm not concerned with the time or money that will go into this. My question for you all today pertains to which E36 I should buy.
When I decided to start looking for my first Bimmer, the E46 seemed like the obvious choice. The chassis offers countless variants and engine options, but for me it had to be a wagon. As you know, wagon people are a little “different.”. As an enthusiast, there are fierce wagon advocates, and people who don’t really care for them.
As a first car, I don’t imagine you’ll find a car in perfect condition but the cars are easy to work on and you can find tons of information and DIY videos on YouTube so you should be able to tackle everything. I plan on buying my kids an E36 as a first car and just maintaining it. I’ve owned E36’s since 2000 and have loved them!
Like any car, evidence of leaking inside the engine compartment, worn out hoses and cracked casing around wires, run it to normal operating temperature and make sure the heat works and it doesn’t overheat. Check to make sure the brakes aren’t totally worn out. Make sure the heat works, and if it has AC that that works as well.
Any version of the car will do -- even the first-time-ever M3 sedans and convertibles. Because the aftermarket latched on to the E36 unlike any other M3. An E36 fits into your life like a good
All drivers have fond memories of their first car, but only a few are lucky enough to be reunited with it years down the line. Kim Kardashian is one of those (rich) few. 13 photos
Honestly, in the case of the OP here, I'd just sell the custom diff to a racer for a good chunk of change, buy a 3.23 LSD from a 96-99 M3, and turn a profit while getting the RPMs down to a good level and saving yourself a boatload of work since the diff is much easier to swap out than the trans.

Current Prices: $6000-$15,000. The BMW E9X chassis was one of the most groundbreaking chassis for BMW, and can still be seen on roads nearly everywhere today. Even with the first models reaching fourteen years old now, the E90's styling still holds up and blends remarkably well with new cars. While the M3 is the pinnacle model of the E9X

An E36 is the most rock-solid, nontemperamental BMW produced to date, in my opinion. Unlike some older models, the fuel-injection system functions flawlessly and isn’t very subject to deterioration with age or use. The wiring of the car is well laid out and protected with insulation that remains flexible, so electrical gremlins aren’t common.

Gee whiz a 1990 BMW M3 just sold on BaT for $58k. They have a new auction feature and this was the first car to go through. A beautiful example to be sure but man is that expensive. E30 prices have gone up like crazy these past two years. Nice E36s are hard to find but at least they are somewhat affordable, for now.

280 votes, 37 comments. 373K subscribers in the BMW community. This sub-reddit is dedicated to everything related to BMW vehicles, tuning, racing…

It’s worth the $100-$200 cost of getting a good pre-purchase inspection by a tech who knows BMW’s and E36’s. Once you have a car with these maintenance items replaced (by you or the previous owners) budget about $600-$1200/year for maintenance going forward. With a well-maintained E36 that you stay on top of the maintenance on, you’ll YRXG0z.
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